Java on a Grand Scale
Paper Tiger Coffee Roasters a hub in Central Vancouver
The year-old coffeehouse has brightened a rebounding commercial zone along Grand Boulevard.
by Howard Buck, Columbian Staff Reporter
A paper tiger is on the prowl, perking up a Central Vancouver neighborhood and creating a
scene.
Make that Paper Tiger Coffee Roasters, brewing up robust java every day at 703 Grand Blvd.
Launched in autumn 2009 by proprietor Zachary Gray, 28, the coffeehouse has enlivened the
short stretch between East Mill Plain and Evergreen boulevards, fast becoming a community hub
and artistic haven.
Itʼs just what Gray, an Illinois transplant, had in mind when he pounced on the space formerly
occupied by The Chicago Steamer hot dog eatery.
“I could see the neighborhood embracing this place. This was a little bit of a diamond in the
rough,” Gray said. Heʼd scouted around near downtown before settling on the busy arterial that
splits the Edgewood Park and Hudsonʼs Bay neighborhoods.
His dual goal: Serve killer coffee and establish a “third place” where conversation and good
energy flows, where personal connections are made for the greater good.
“I think we need a lot more places like this in Vancouver,” Gray said, quick to embrace all that
“coffee culture” conjures. “Iʼm not in it for the quick buck. Itʼs about adding value to my life, and
the community.”
Admirers say heʼs on the right track.
“Their coffee is great. You can tell they like what they do,” said Sarah Johnsen, 29, who sipped a
cup with a friend on a weekday morning.
Now living near Leverich Park, sheʼs a native who often visited the former Pegasus comic shop a
few doors away. She appreciates the jolt of energy Gray has sent into the understated
commercial zone, she said.
“Itʼs nice to see it coming back,” Johnsen said. “Itʼs nice to support a little shop, over the big guy.
Thatʼs really what Vancouver is all about.”
The joint is a good fit with a handful of specialty shops in an adjoining mini-mall and fills a niche
with the few sit-down establishments within shouting distance: The Blind Onion Pizza shop on Mill
Plain, the El Delfin restaurant on Grand and the venerable Igloo Restaurant on East Evergreen
Boulevard.
“Paper Tiger was a real help to class the place up. They do have some new ideas and energy,”
said Steve Bader, whose Bader Beer & Wine Supply shop a few yards away pulls in many of the
same do-it-yourself types who appreciate fine wine, beer or coffee.
All about the coffee
For Gray, by training a graphic designer whose wife, Rebecca, paints professionally at home, it all
starts with the coffee.
The couple was infatuated during an extended stay in Florence, Italy, he said. Great coffee on
every street corner, brewed by proud, talented baristas, and remarkable discourse.
Gray cites the so-called “penny university” heritage of European coffeehouses, where anyone
could rub shoulders with writers and other creative types and emerge the wiser.
“I love the conversations, the ideas, the stories that I hear,” he said. He and Rebecca returned to
Chicago as changed people. They sought a comparable U.S. scene, found it in Seattle and
Portland and chose Portland, where he landed design work.
Then, his new passion took over. He researched particulars of selecting, roasting and carefully
filtering deep, rich coffees, part of his “pop-the-hood” and see whatʼs beneath curiosity, he said.
Soon, the fruits of his DIY roasting drew raves from friends and colleagues, and an idea was
hatched.
“Hey, this could be a really fun line of work,” Gray told himself. He studied techniques and
roasting machines before buying a model manufactured by hand in Oklahoma City for about
$10,000.
There was no doubt about the name: “Tiger” is in tribute to the orange and brown stripes in
Grayʼs carefully extracted espresso that forms the base for all his drinks. The nuanced sweet,
sour, salty and citrus sensations reflect the complexity of coffee, which has 800 or 900 flavor
components, he said.
At 1 and 6 p.m. on Tuesdays, he shares his joy with anyone interested during free “coffee
cupping” seminars.
Poetry night
Gray has hired two more enthusiastic baristas who also fuss over customers. Each day, they post
a menu of direct-trade coffee grown in Latin America or Africa.
Other touches include a used book rack, eye-catching photography from Clark College students
and pleasant ambient music.
A 21st century creature, Paper Tiger also reaches fans via Facebook, Twitter and its website, at
http://papertigercoffee.com. The shop has Wi-Fi, of course.
Special events include live music. In November, the shop hosted Culture Control, a daylong
Vancouver music and art festival. Every third Thursday evening (the shop normally closes at 6
p.m.), itʼs home to a poetry night that consistently draws 30 to 40 writers from Vancouver-Portland
for open-mic readings and musings.
“This is a great venue,” said Dan Nelson, a participant who simply treks a few blocks from his
Central Park home. He found out about the place from a friend who raved about “the best coffee
in Vancouver,” he said.
“Itʼs not just a neighborhood thing,” said Nelson, whoʼs heard from regulars all across town.
Itʼs also easy enough to find, reached from the East Mill Plain Boulevard exit off Interstate 5 or
first exit off state Highway 14, Gray noted.
Still, Grayʼs prime motive is to nurture local bonding.
An appreciative Kevin Hiebert, 37, a nonprofit group manager, said heʼs succeeded in forging a
congregation point. “This has been a real lighthouse for the neighborhood,” he said.
Obviously pleased, Gray deflects the praise.
“Iʼve been privileged to meet my neighbors here. Thatʼs been the best part of the year,” he said.
“Itʼs been a mutual blessing.”